A 500 amp shunt can be used in a system with 5 times the current of one where you'd use a 100 amp shunt.įor more in depth explanations you can look here and here Shunts solved that problem since they can use small, cheap, flexible wire to connect a dash mounted gauge to the car's main power circuit without passing high current all over the place.Ī shunt's rating is how much power can pass through it. This was not only expensive and cumbersome but fairly dangerous. A real heavy cable would need to come from the generator through the firewall under the dash through the gauge then back through the firewall and to the battery. Imagine not that we're discussing digital gauges but think back to the old days where an ammeter was mounted in the dash of your car. By measuring the load passing through this known resistance the ammeter can infer the load without causing a large loss in power or needing to have all the power pass through the meter itself. A shunt is a very precise, very low impedance resistor. ![]() To do this it must either a) be inline with the load or b) use a shunt.Ī) requires that all your current flow directly through the ammeter so not only requires quite a robust gauge and heavy cabling but also causes a considerable loss of power as it passes through the gauge then onto the loadī) is the much more practical solution. I'll look for his review of itĪn ammeter is what reads current and is needed to calculate things like how much power you've used, how much is remaining, etc. I agree that it doesn't do everything that a trimetric does but this ebay unit keeps track of charging amps that go in and amps that are used and gives you a battery percentage and amp hours left in your battery bank as well. Ħ)shows he has one installed. I like how the front of Maycee is custom with the wall and couch setup. I couldn't quite justify a more expensive trimetric but figured I'd take a risk with this and I've been more than happy. This is one of the nicest products I've seen.ĥ) (from the youtube video where I got the the picture) Yeah I really enjoy having it. So I guess risk is quite low to receive all bad ones. This also going to affect the integrated amp-hours, making them read a bit high.Ĥ) (same thread as #3) They got about 99.8% good rates. The power supplies regulate at 12 amps but after a short time will display 12.5 amps. It works well but seems to read a bit high in current as the shunt heats up (indicating the shunt material is not optimal). This forum has lots of support for this meter, including some re-written and expanded instructions hereĢ)Great meter, easy to calibrate and set alarms, top of the line construction.ģ) Here is one of the original meters in this thread being used for charge monitoring. If i find i need much more accuracy then i might invest in something better but this may just do the trick for me. Mine also tends to bounce around a little when it has no load on it, not been able to sort that out just yet.So is it worth it? For me it was, i had nothing to start with and now have something. It doesn't appear to have any intelligence in it for that. ![]() The other features like the AH counter works on you telling it the capacity of your battery and then simply counts them out and back in. Volts wise it seems good, Amps it needs a little bit of messing about with to get an accurate reading. ![]() What i would say is that you need to calibrate it so if you are looking for something to work straight out the box then don't buy. Here's the manual in pdf.ġ) Well i decided to get one and it arrived in a couple of weeks. Cheaper here and they've sold about 200 more.
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